Buda Buda Buda. Pest Pest Pest.
Very first thoughts: Oh my gahhh! We're in Hungary! This is Budapest! Ahhhhh. How does this country work? We are here but we have no forint. This people look so Hungarian. Where is an ATM? How do we get metro tickets? Ahhhhh.
Cue us walking in circles until I finally got the guts to ask an official-looking-woman where the "bankomat" was --- scary, scary, scary.
When we got to the Goat Hostel, we were greeted in the staircase by Steve - the most extraordinary man I've ever met. He and his broken English led us into what would be our dwelling for the remainder of the trip - the warmest homiest non-home in all of Europe - hardwood floors, couches, giganto windows, slightly off-taste curtains, a view on a happening Hungarian street, coffee machine - it was all there.
It was rather late by the time we arrived, so we had a super cool restaurant picked out from our guidebook that we planned on chowing down at. Our hostel was on the Pest side, and the dining locale was on the Buda side, so we had to cross over the Danube, which was a.w.e.s.o.m.e. I just love bridges, being over big quantities of water, watching the liquid crash into the strong pillars, it's just great - and even greater at night. Budapest has a lot of famous bridges - Liberty Bridge {right right next to our hostel}, Elizabeth Bridge, and Chain bridge. I think these bridges are why, out of all three capitals of the Hapsburg Triumvirute, Budapest reminded me most of Paris. We crossed the sparkly Chain Bridge on our hunt for the restaurant.
At this point, through our experiences in Prague and Vienna, I had assumed the role of navigator, à la Christopher Columbus, with a map of the city always just a zipper away. Usually I did my job like a pro, getting us from sight to sight in no time, but Budapest didn't want me to get promoted too quickly. Under my guidance, we climbed to the top of Buda, we walked around the Castle district, made our way down "streets," skinny dirt paths, and charming staircases. After about an hour and a half of circling and confusion, my failure was officially declared. Surrounded by a slight gray cloud of shame, we made our way back down the hill, settling on a cute place right by our hostel, approximately 20 meters from where we had first started. fail. However, the food was yummy, and it was a great precursor to a wonderful night's sleep.
{photo credit to Christopher Servidio}
At this point, through our experiences in Prague and Vienna, I had assumed the role of navigator, à la Christopher Columbus, with a map of the city always just a zipper away. Usually I did my job like a pro, getting us from sight to sight in no time, but Budapest didn't want me to get promoted too quickly. Under my guidance, we climbed to the top of Buda, we walked around the Castle district, made our way down "streets," skinny dirt paths, and charming staircases. After about an hour and a half of circling and confusion, my failure was officially declared. Surrounded by a slight gray cloud of shame, we made our way back down the hill, settling on a cute place right by our hostel, approximately 20 meters from where we had first started. fail. However, the food was yummy, and it was a great precursor to a wonderful night's sleep.
Every one of my days in Budapest started off with the most perfect cup of coffee - like whoa. Our hostel offers free breakfast and whoever is on guard at the time -- we were privy to three different people during our stay (including extraordinary Steve) -- makes you the most delicious coffee ever. I don't know if it was the even-betterlooking-than-starbucks-steamed milk that topped it off or the charming glass mugs it was served in, but wow - just wow.
Walking to the top of Buda - this time in daylight and with fewer furrowed brows, skin taking in the sunshine - was probably my favorite part of our entire Eastern European trip. As a resident of Paris, I miss hiking and mountains and leaves and dirt :: and the walk to the Liberation Monument that sits atop Gellért Hill offered it all. By the time we got all the way up, we were hot - a phenomenon that started atop that hill, and unfortunately, ended there as well. After a magnificent pause of admiration and rest, our adventures continued.
We went to the National Gallery, atop Buda hill number two (via elevator shh), located in a part of Buda Castle. The simplistic exhibits allowed us to take in lots and lots of Hungarian art - from medieval to contemporary. I really loved the secessionist art. Unfortunately I lost the names I had noted down of the artists that intrigued me. But that's okay, I'll just go back. {side note: I also must go back because this visit of Budapest didn't include a trip to the baths, I know, the concept is heretical, I don't even want to talk about it}.
We hardly ever took the metro - walking was just so pleasant, with the sun shining and all. However, some of our walking was not so sunny -- enter the Buda Castle Labyrinth. Advertised as a children's attraction, we couldn't help but hope it was perfect for us. I don't really know what I was expecting from it, but when I actually entered the underground edifice of never-ending paths, dirt, and dripping water, I kind of freaked out. Demanding that I be held by Isa on my left and Chris on my right {to keep me from the Labyrinth monsters} at all times, I'm proud, and surprised, to say I made it out alive.
We went to the National Gallery, atop Buda hill number two (via elevator shh), located in a part of Buda Castle. The simplistic exhibits allowed us to take in lots and lots of Hungarian art - from medieval to contemporary. I really loved the secessionist art. Unfortunately I lost the names I had noted down of the artists that intrigued me. But that's okay, I'll just go back. {side note: I also must go back because this visit of Budapest didn't include a trip to the baths, I know, the concept is heretical, I don't even want to talk about it}.
We hardly ever took the metro - walking was just so pleasant, with the sun shining and all. However, some of our walking was not so sunny -- enter the Buda Castle Labyrinth. Advertised as a children's attraction, we couldn't help but hope it was perfect for us. I don't really know what I was expecting from it, but when I actually entered the underground edifice of never-ending paths, dirt, and dripping water, I kind of freaked out. Demanding that I be held by Isa on my left and Chris on my right {to keep me from the Labyrinth monsters} at all times, I'm proud, and surprised, to say I made it out alive.
Dinner took place at the Kaltenberg, or rather, the Kaltenberg Bavarian Royal Restaurant. This former tabacco factory is now an etterem that brews its own beers, has charming vaulted medieval ceilings, offers half-off dishes on the weekend !!, and provides musical happiness with a live-band trio that simply lights up the night. After a delicious meal we headed over to Szimpla, an alternative bar full with a painfully hip crowd and delicious pints.
Sunday was not only our last day in Budapest, it was the last day of our fabulous winter break, of our entire Eastern European fiasco. In celebration of this very important day, we: got lost in an authentic Hungarian flea market, swirled at Liberty Square, walked around St. Stephen's Basilica, got kicked out of Parliament, got snowed on {!??!?!?}, and, most importantly, ate a dish adorned with paprika and learned how to say cheers - "egészségére" - pronounced "agiyeh shaygadrah" (or maybe we just heard our waiter wrong, I don't know, Hungarian spelling really mystified me).
We arose early Monday morning to take our final plane back to Paris. As I lingered in the airport, I reminisced on all of the wonderful happenings of the past 10 days, of how I could add 4 more countries to my resumé of travels, of how I knew 7 more vocab words, of how I would get to sort through 200+ pictures when I got back, but most importantly, of how friggin cool it was that I drank a good 23 pints in a little over a week - ha, just kidding, or ...? No, it really was beautiful times.
Sunday was not only our last day in Budapest, it was the last day of our fabulous winter break, of our entire Eastern European fiasco. In celebration of this very important day, we: got lost in an authentic Hungarian flea market, swirled at Liberty Square, walked around St. Stephen's Basilica, got kicked out of Parliament, got snowed on {!??!?!?}, and, most importantly, ate a dish adorned with paprika and learned how to say cheers - "egészségére" - pronounced "agiyeh shaygadrah" (or maybe we just heard our waiter wrong, I don't know, Hungarian spelling really mystified me).
We arose early Monday morning to take our final plane back to Paris. As I lingered in the airport, I reminisced on all of the wonderful happenings of the past 10 days, of how I could add 4 more countries to my resumé of travels, of how I knew 7 more vocab words, of how I would get to sort through 200+ pictures when I got back, but most importantly, of how friggin cool it was that I drank a good 23 pints in a little over a week - ha, just kidding, or ...? No, it really was beautiful times.
This being my last post of what was a mind-whirling vacation, I just want to send my love to all of the Londonians, Praguians, Viennese, and Budapestians. You guys were bomb.
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